This afternoon I will be explaining the beginning of preparing a muslin mock up pattern. As based on the previous post, I am doing Marfy pattern 3232. Lets get started.
For those who don't know even where to begin, this is where you should start. Start by going online or to a local fabric shop and purchasing some muslin. When purchasing try to get it unbleached. Depending on the garment that is being created one needs to pick a similar width fabric that is actually going to be used. Why? The reason for this is, if one is creating a skirt that is 45 in wide and is going to be gathered and buys 60in wide muslin, it will not be wide enough. Once the muslin is folded over the 60in muslin becomes 30in, which is not wide enough. Store owners and helpers if purchasing at local sewing store should be able to help.
Once the muslin is bought there will be some wrinkles or maybe some creases. The muslin will need to be ironed. This is really important because the patterns pieces need to be as flat and accurate as possible. If there are wrinkles the pattern will not sit right. Taking the time to iron the fabric and do the little things will pay off in the end.
Once the muslin is ready and laid out, place pattern pieces on muslin and pin. As seen in the picture above I left a 1.5 seam allowance around my pattern. Marfy patterns do not have seam allowances and in couture the "normal" 5/8th seam allowance is too small. If the pattern that you are using has included a 5/8th seam allowance, take it out by marking on the patter 5/8th in. If still confused comment in the comment section below and I can assist you. That being said leave enough space between the pattern pieces so there can be a large seam allowance added in.
Above are some supplies that will be need. Ruler, pins, sewing scissors, tracing wheel, and tracing paper. At this point you should have your pattern pinned to the muslin. After all the pieces are pinned it will need to be cut out. Once it is cut, keep the pattern pinned to the muslin.
I don't want to overwhelm anyone, that is why we are going to take it slow. We still have quite a bit of work to do, but don't worry none of it is very hard. What is next? What we are going to do next is trace the lines using wax tracing paper. After that we will sew the lines so that they can be seen on both side of the garment. This makes the alteration process easier. If anyone has questions don't hesitate to ask below. Stay tuned for more instructions coming soon.
-Birdy
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